On the eastern border between France and Spain, where the Pyrenean mountains meet the Mediterranean Sea, there is a series of rocky headlands and sheltered bays which the French call La Cote de Vermeille - the Vermilion Coast. The name refers to the rocks which have been eroded by both weather and sea, exposing a bright and sometimes browny red.
These rocks are incredibly hard and have defiantly withstood the waves for millennia, forming the resistant cliffs which make access to the coast itself something of a challenge from both land and sea.
In each bay along the coast a small town perches precariously on its slopes, running down to whatever area of flat land is available, creating a sheltered resort behind a small, but sandy beach. Thus Collioure, Banyuls sur Mer and Cerbere have the feeling of small isolated settlements, though none of them far from its neighbour. Port Vendres is the exception, as here, where the sea has invaded a bay to produce a natural harbour behind the headland, there is little or no beach and a small commercial port has developed.
Behind the coast, in the valleys used by the railway and road, the colour of the rocks stands out as the base of vineyards which somehow grow here, sometimes on terraces one row wide. No soil is apparent, just slatey stone, yet the vines thrive on these slopes and provide the basis for some classic wines and aperitifs, particularly Banyuls, the standard way to begin any meal along this coast.
In many respects the coast is best approached by train, as the roads are congested throughout the summer season, and parking is at a premium, but there are plenty of trains on a service which runs through from Perpignan to northern Spain.
Each town along the coast has its own particular charm, none more so than Collioure, an old fortress town with spectacular buildings and a buzz of excitement from its many daily visitors. The narrow streets are full of interest, with galleries, boutiques and restaurants to suit all tastes, particularly those of the sea, as local boats bring in a regular supply of Mediterranean fare.
It is possible to spend a day discovering corners never previously noticed, walking along the sea front and sea wall, admiring the majestic views and marvelling at the clarity and colour of the sea, before retiring once again to a favoured eating place for more marine delicacies.
Banyuls sur Mer sits in an even narrower valley than Collioure and is inevitably, therefore, a little smaller. However, the same features are here, with steep, narrow streets, magnificent sea views, a sheltered, sandy beach and plenty of places to eat. Of all the restaurants along this coast we favour Chez Claude, on the Banyuls sea front, with a wonderful set menu containing lots of choice and, of course, a glass of Banyuls to get the taste buds over excited. But come early for lunch as the restaurant soon fills every day.
The aperitif is made here in the town which bears its name, and the only other business is fishing, tourism and a large marine laboratory which dominates the side of the marina.
Between Collioure and Banyuls lies Port Vendres, a different sort of town, but with its own charm and well worth a visit. It has the feel of an Irish coastal town, with distinctive long rows of houses above the bay frontage.
The main part of the town is restricted around the harbour, a relatively deep water port, the nearest commercial and ferry port to Perpignan. Its importance came from its rail link, the only one to the actual sea front along this coast, and the shelter provided by the harbour itself. The harbour frontage is dominated by the inevitable restaurants and those who visit or who tie up their boats in the marina have plenty of choice.
Cerbere is smaller again than Banyuls, and is dominated by the enormous brick viaduct which carries the railway and its large terminus station. For here the French railway system ends, although services do continue through the mountains to Port Bou, the equivalent terminus station in Spain. A huge space has been carved out of the hillside behind the town to house the rail sidings, and from the road above the town on the Spanish side, the view is like that of a huge model railway layout. The town itself has a small beach and less to offer generally than its three neighbours.
This is an outstandingly beautiful stretch of coast, ever more popular with the discerning tourist, and on several headlands between the town centres, modern hotels have been constructed, offering upmarket accommodation with the most spectacular views.
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